The Ultimate 3-day Guide to Rome
I have been a lifelong student of history and always try to immerse myself in the locations I visit. Rome is no exception and is one of the few places that can still offer a glimpse into the past. The eternal city of Rome is one of those rarities that has monuments, temples, ruins, and treasures of lives long gone. Take the Pantheon, for example. A former Pagan turned Christian temple that dates back to 29 BC, the Pantheon provides us with proof of just how advanced civilization was 2000 years ago.
Rome is packed with sites to see, footsteps to follow in, and history to explore. One of the most beautiful things about Rome to me is that it has kept its ancient charm and aesthetics throughout. Don’t be fooled, however. Rome is still a very lively city with amazing and luxurious hotels, world-class restaurants, and a spectacular nightlife of bars and clubs. There is something for everyone, from young students, to traveling singles and couples, to retirees enjoying their golden years. I hope that by providing you with a curated three-day itinerary, you’ll be able to maximize your visit and enjoy the eternal city.
Here is my 3-day guide with full itinerary for the eternal city of Rome.
*Note - The arrival day is a free day. I won't give you any advice on what to see or do, but will begin the guide with day 1 as the day after arriving.
Day 1:
1. Piazza Navona: 0800-0845
To kick off your trip, you’ll make a quick stop at the Piazza Navona, one of the most beautiful squares in Rome’s center. Once home to a stadium where ancient Romans watched athletic competitions, the square now hosts theatrical events and public markets. The piazza centers around Baroque sculptor Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Fountain of the Four Rivers), and two more fountains flank it on its north and south ends. Visit the Piazza Navona in the early morning to get amazing pictures before tourists and vendors crowd in.
Next stop: The Pantheon. Walk time is 10 min
2. The Pantheon: 0900-1000
Next, you’ll visit the iconic Pantheon. Constructed in the second century AD, the Pantheon served as a Roman temple until 609 AD, when Pope Boniface IV converted it to a Catholic church. Although the fall of the Roman Empire during the early medieval period saw many ancient Roman buildings destroyed, the Pantheon’s continued use as a church saved it from a similar fate. As a result, it’s now the best-preserved ancient building in Rome. It’s also the final resting place for many notable historical figures, including the painter Raphael and two Italian kings.
Stepping inside the Pantheon is a surreal experience. Still the largest unreinforced concrete dome in the world, the rotunda stretches up 142 feet to a central oculus that opens to the sky. Structurally, the opening serves to both lighten the dome’s load and provide light and cooling to the building. But experts now think the oculus also functioned as a sundial in ancient times. Mind-blowing!
Book a small group tour like the one I chose to get a more intimate look at the Pantheon and its history.
Next stop: Piazza del Campidoglio. Walk time is 15 min
3. Piazza del Campidoglio: 1015-1030
Your next stop takes you to Capitoline Hill, the most important of Rome’s seven hills, and the beautiful Piazza del Campidoglio. Famed Renaissance artist Michelangelo designed the piazza for Pope Paul III, who wanted to build a symbol of the new, “modern” Rome.
In the center of the piazza, you’ll find a sculpture of Marcus Aurelius atop a horse. Lupa Capitolina (The Capitoline Wolf), one of the most famous statues in Rome, is housed in the Aldrovandi Room of the nearby Capitoline Museums. This bronze sculpture depicts Rome’s mythical founders Romulus and Remus feeding from the she-wolf who found and raised them after their usurper uncle cast them into the River Tiber.
Next stop: Altare Della Patria. Walk time is 5 min
4. Altare Della Patria: 1035-1135
When I try to imagine what Ancient Rome looked like at its height, I picture the Altare Della Patria. Constructed between 1885 and 1935, the “Altar of the Fatherland” celebrates the 50th anniversary of the unification of Italy and honors the “father” of Italy, King Vittorio Emanuele II of Savoy. The Italians’ sense of national pride is evident in every aspect of the site.
Take your time to walk the staircases and admire all the details. You can also buy a ticket to visit the top of the altar, but the line gets very long since access is limited to a few patrons at a time. If you’re hungry, stop at the on-site cafe for a granita and enjoy it with a view overlooking the Roman Forum. (We’ll get to that in a bit!)
Next stop: Lunch! Walk time is 25 min (more on lunch in the next section)
5. Lunch at Il Cortile: 1200-1300
Of course, eat anywhere you like! But I want to recommend excellent, geographically convenient restaurants if you’re following along with the itinerary.
Next stop: Trevi Fountain. Walk time is 15 min
6. Trevi Fountain: 1315-1345
No matter what time of day you go, the marvelous Trevi Fountain will be packed with tourists and locals alike (unless you plan to visit between 2 and 6 am, and hey – you do you). However, most people only stick around to take a few snaps and leave. So just be patient, and you’ll find a spot to sit on the fountain’s edge.
Just like the Altar of the Fatherland, this is what I imagine ancient Rome looked like. I could be romanticizing the Roman Empire a bit, but hey, let a boy dream! Legend has it that if you throw a coin into the water with your right hand over your left shoulder, you’ll return to Rome. Two coins, and you’ll return and fall for an attractive Italian. Three coins, and you’ll marry that person. With all the coins thrown by gullible – er, I mean hopeful people, roughly one million euros are collected and donated to local charities each year.
Next stop: Spanish Steps. Walk time is 15 min.
7. Spanish Steps: 1400-1430
Relatively new by Roman standards, the gorgeous Spanish Steps are a 300-year-young staircase that connects the Piazza di Spagna below with the Trinità dei Monti church. The 135 steps, which split into two separate staircases halfway up their steep climb, sit at the end of one of Rome’s higher-end shopping districts. Many tourists gather around the fountain here, so I suggest just a quick walk up or down the steps to get a few pictures, then we’ll move on.
Next stop: Villa Borghese. Walk time is 5 min.
8. Villa Borghese: 1435-1600
The most attractive park in Rome, Villa Borghese, is your next stop. Take a stroll through this tranquil sanctuary to get away from the city’s busy streets and tourist hordes. Villa Borghese, which is surrounded by woods and verdant pastures, is also the location of spectacular Roman fountains and statues. At the lake (Laghetto Di Villa Borghese), you can rent a boat and spend the afternoon relaxing on the water. Or just unwind on one of the park’s many benches while soaking in the relaxed mood and breathtaking natural scenery.
Next stop: Galleria Borghese (located in the park so no walk time needed).
9. Galleria Borghese: 1600-1800
One of Rome’s most impressive museums, Galleria Borghese, is located at Villa Borghese. Make your way to the eastern part of the park once you have explored the rest of it to visit the Galleria and its extensive collection of artwork, which includes works by Raphael, Botticelli, Caravaggio, Tiziano, and more. The museum’s walls and ceiling are covered in stunning paintings, and everywhere you look there are stunning mosaics and intimidating statues.
Next stop: Dinner. Back to your hotel/AirBnb to freshen up and take a little time to relax. Walk time varies, but factor in 30 min.
10. Dinner at Maestro Bistro: 2000-whenever
Located a mere one block away from the Piazza della Republicca, we just happened to stumble across this fantastic restaurant while out strolling one evening. Occupying a corner directly across from the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, enjoy an elevated and upscale dining experience that won’t cost a fortune.
As always, the service for me is what makes the experience shine or fade into nothing. Maestro gave us a wonderful experience with their service and food. So good, we ate here twice during our 6 total days we spent in Rome. We had the same waiter both times and he remembered us when we came back. We actually told him we would come back, and he had a surprise for me. My favorite wine is Amarone della Valpolicella, and during our first visit they were out. So what did he do? He went and bought a bottle for when we came back. Now that, is service.
So to the food. Both times, I ordered the Mezze Maniche in Carbonara style. Basically it was rigatoni pasta with carbonara sauce. It was in my top two pasta and carbonara I have ever had in my life! The creamy silky yolks of the sauce mixed with the saltiness of the bacon was heavenly. The pasta was perfectly al dente and allowed the sauce to take refuge in the rigatoni and wait to be devoured.
For my wife, she ordered Cacio e Pepe the first time and Tortellini with tomatoes, burrata cheese, and basil pesto the second time. Cacio e Pepe is her favorite pasta dish so she was so ecstatic after her first bite. The Romano cheese and fresh pepper was so simple yet packed a ton of flavor. The basil pesto sauce she had the second time tasted as if they made it right before serving. The freshness of the herbs and aromatics it exuded made us feel like we were sitting in their private herb garden enjoying a delicious meal. Thinking the meal couldn’t get any better, we ordered dessert.
So for the two visits, we had a total of three desserts. The egg illusion, pear in 3D, and pina colada cheesecake. When people say you eat with your eyes, this is a prime example. The egg illusion was a white chocolate shell with white chocolate and coconut mouse inside. A mango tartare was the yolk and it was all sitting on a bed of shredded phyllo dough resembling a nest. The pear in 3D had a ricotta and pear filling with cinnamon and salted caramel crumble surrounding the “pear”. It was all encased in a shimmering green shell. Another delicious treat. The pina colada cheesecakes came as a halo of a crust with 6 large dollops of the cream cheese presented on the halo. Fresh pineapple accompanied the cream cheese and was a tropical paradise.
We had such a wonderful time meeting the staff and manager at this amazing restaurant. We were even treated to a couple shots of Amaro and good conversation. When we come back to this city, Maestro Bistrot is on our list of places to eat.
End of Day 1!
You did it! I hope you’ve had a great first day in Rome. If you still have energy and want to venture out, consider revisiting some city center spots like Trevi Fountain or the Altar of the Fatherland for nighttime views. The Colosseum is also very close to this area, so take advantage if you aren’t too tired. Sleep well, and I’ll see you tomorrow!
Day 2:
1. Colosseum, Roman Forum, Palatine Hill: 0930-1330
I highly recommend booking a guided tour (like the one I did) when you visit the Colosseum. This quintessential Roman landmark is the largest amphitheater ever built and one of the New 7 Wonders of the World. It’s chock full of incredible history, and a knowledgeable guide can fill you in on all of it: the construction, what actually went on inside, the elevators that transported the gladiators, executions, seasons, and more. It’s mind-blowing.
As you leave the Colosseum, you’ll walk up Palatine Hill to see where the imperial palaces once were. Though it’s now a large, open-air museum, Romans have lived on Palatine Hill since the tenth century BC. A location that’s central both geographically and in Roman mythology, Palatine Hill is where Lupa Capitolina is said to have discovered Romulus and Remus.
Just northwest of Palatine Hill, you’ll find the heart of the Roman Empire: the Roman Forum. The Forum was the center of Roman public life for centuries and contained many of its most important structures, including temples, government buildings, and royal residences. Sediment from flooding and nearby hill erosion raised the ground level of the Forum, and residents began simply paving over the debris when it became too difficult to remove. When the Roman Empire collapsed, the Forum fell apart as well, and Catholic popes contributed to its degradation by exploiting its monuments as a quarry for stone and marble.
The Forum remained dormant under grass and dirt for hundreds of years until the Italian government began excavations on it in the late 19th century. Today those excavations continue, and archaeologists uncover more about ancient Rome all the time.
Next stop: Lunch. Walk time is 30 min to my recommendation, but you can take a taxi or ride share also.
2. Lunch at Pasta e Vino Osteria: 1400-1500
Again, please eat anywhere you like but use my recommendations for following along with the itinerary and a fantastic restaurant.
Following our visit to an amazing experience and the best Carbonara I had ever had, I wanted to try more! Seeing as though Rome is known as the birthplace of and where the best carbonara is, how could I resist? So we set out in search of another famed carbonara experience.
I relied on Google, reviews, and Yelp to all help me make my decision on where to go. I found Pasta e Vino Osteria keep coming up as “the best carbonara in Rome” from tons of reviews. We decided to one afternoon in between exploring the eternal city. There are three locations in Rome and the one we went to was a rustic setting almost looking like a wild west scene, but with wine barrels on the walls. The charming settings and minimal decor isn’t upscale, but the food was the real winner here.
As we walked to the entrance, in the large window at the front overlooking the street and an ancient ruins site, was Sara. She was making the fresh pasta, from scratch, for all to see. This was awesome to witness. Sometimes I wonder just how “fresh” things are but getting to see her masterful working of the dough, shaping the ravioli, tortellini, linguini, spaghetti all from hand, a rolling pin and utensils was so cool. During our meal we even got to witness her making tiramisu from scratch in individual glass jars. How neat is that!
For an appetizer, we ordered Ricotta, pepperoni e pesto. Fresh buffalo ricotta with caramelized red pepper, pest, and home-made crackers. It was easy to taste just how fresh ricotta and pesto were. Creamy and delicious cheese with a burst of herbal flavor from the pesto was delightful. The addition of the red pepper really made this antipasto stand out from every other one we tried on our two week trip. It brought the ricotta to another level I hadn’t experienced before.
Now, the carbonara and lasagna. WOW! The reviews were absolutely correct. The classic carbonara consisting of fresh pecorino and parmesan, bacon, egg yolk, and black pepper with spaghettoni blew my mind. Talk about an out of body experience. With the first bite my mid couldn’t comprehend just how delicious this dish was. The creamy cheese and silky yolk cut ever so slightly by the pasta water, crispy bacon littered throughout but not too much to where the saltiness took over. And the pepper gave an ever so slight bite, cutting some of the cream and salt. It was a perfect marriage of flavors and masterful pasta making to create the perfect storm of a dish. AND THAT WAS ONLY MY FIRST BITE. With each subsequent bite, I swear it got even tastier. I said 3 words to my wife during that meal because I couldn’t set my fork down. I do think I made a multitude of strange sounds however, almost resembling a large animal in heat (at least that’s what I thought).
The lasagna came in the square dish it was baked in and the portion was massive. The dish was approximately 5in x 5in and smelled so wonderful. Fresh tomato, minced beef, carrots, celery, and onions all topped with mozzarella and parmesan. I never thought in a million years she would be able to finish it. To her credit, she devoured it, but in a very ladylike and dignified way of course. With both of our meals came a brown bag with thin made bread/crackers topped with salt and finely grated parmesan. The perfect compliment to scoop up all the sauce and bits, and I do mean ALL the sauce.
To end, we had to have one of Sara’s specially made tiramisu mugs. The rum soaked lady fingers and fresh cream was a delight to end this journey of flavor and spectacular dining. I would be doing you a disservice if I didn’t send you to this fantastic restaurant in the heart of Rome.
Next stop: Trastevere. Walk time is 15 min.
3. Trastevere: 1515-1815
Because of its location on the western banks of the River Tiber, Trastevere began as a working-class community where sailors and fishermen made their homes. Now known as the foodie area of Rome, the eclectic neighborhood is an Instagrammer’s dream. Ancient buildings adorned with flowers and colorful boutique shops line the narrow cobblestone streets. Operating at a much slower pace than the rest of the eternal city, it’s a great spot to find a pub or restaurant for lively outdoor dining. Stop by one of the many cafes for a refreshing Aperol Spritz and just slow down for a little bit.
Next stop: Mouth of Truth. Walk time is 30 min.
4. Mouth of Truth: 1830-1900
Back across the river, make a quick stop to see the mythical Bocca della Verità (Mouth of Truth). According to medieval lore, this marble mask will bite off the hand of anyone who tells a lie while placing their hand in the mask’s mouth. Seems aggressive, but hey, I don’t make the rules.
Next stop: Hotel to freshen up (or not) then dinner. Travel time varies so factor in 30 min.
5. Dinner at Ristorante All’Oro: 2030-Whenever
A fabulous and luxurious 1-Michelin starred experience, Ristorante All’Oro gives a playful take on elevated cuisine. With all courses coming on the most curious and whimsical settings, you will have fun while enjoying this world class cuisine. Definitely make reservations well in advance as they do fill up quickly.
As always, you can dine wherever you’d like. If you want to have a fine dining experience without feeling like you are at a formal or stuffy setting, come to Ristorante All’Oro.
6. End of Day 2!
Day 3:
1. Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore: 0915-1000
Though it’s one of Rome’s four major basilicas, the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore feels like a hidden gem, as it’s much less crowded than most other attractions in central Rome. Constructed in the 4th century to honor the Virgin Mary, the church received a facelift in the 18th century. Different parts of the basilica belong to different periods of Roman history, and the variety of architectural styles represented show the development of Christian art in Rome over time. Take your time admiring the church’s gorgeous ceilings, ionic columns, and mosaic art away from the hustle and bustle of crowds.
Next stop: The Vatican. Walk time is 30 min.
2. The Vatican: 1030-1400
When in Rome (heh), a visit to the Vatican City is a must, no matter one’s religious affiliation. The Vatican isn’t just one of the most important locations in Christianity; it’s also the home of iconic art and a major archaeological site.
My wife and I booked a private tour of the Vatican that turned out to be absolutely perfect. (Find it here.) I’m not sponsored by or affiliated with the Skip the Line Tour in any way – I just really want you to have the same incredible experience we had. Our private tour was literally just the two of us and our official, Vatican-certified tour guide. Not only were we able to ask every question we had (and actually hear all the responses, which can be an issue for me in larger tour groups), our guide was insanely knowledgeable about the history of each area we went to – and there are a ton.
An independent city-state surrounded on all sides by Rome, Vatican City stretches over 121 acres, with gardens dating back to medieval times covering about half that area. Your tour will guide you through the Vatican Museums, St. Peter’s Basilica, and the Sistine Chapel, home of Michelangelo’s famous ceiling frescoes. St. Peter’s Basilica is massive, with many different areas to explore. Each room unveils a whole new treasure, whether it’s hand-painted maps of Italy, iconic sculptures, or ornate frescoes. I almost didn’t know where to look because every little thing was so beautiful, and our tour guide was able to point out incredible details that I otherwise would’ve missed. (Like Michelangelo’s inscription of ‘Michelangelo did this’ on his iconic Pietà sculpture, for one.)
Truly a top-notch tour experience.
Next stop: Lunch at Papo Gusto. Walk time is 10 min.
3. Lunch at Papa Gusto: 1410-1530
A small in stature establishment just minutes from the Vatican, Papo Gusto is a fantastic choice in between stops. A Neapolitan style restaurant, Papa’s offers up amazing dishes of fresh Buffalo Mozzarella salad, pizzas (I did the Diavola and it was superb), panini’s, and a nice selection of wine. The highlight for us was the sexy baba. We were convinced by the owner to try one because apparently after eating them, you must go have sex. I will not divulge what we did following lunch (ha ha).
Next stop: Castel Sant’Angelo. Walk time is 10 min.
4. Castel Sant’Angelo: 1540-1730
At one time the tallest building in Rome, Castel Sant’Angelo (Castle of the Holy Angel) was initially intended to be a tomb for the Roman emperor Hadrian and his family. Though the castle also housed the ashes of all succeeding emperors, many were looted and scattered during the fifth-century Visigoth invasion of Rome. Catholic popes took control of the mausoleum and converted it: first into a castle, then a residence, and finally, a prison.
Today, the castle operates as a museum. Tickets allow for entry any time between 9am and 7pm. Let me know if you find the room where Tom Hanks filmed the movie Angels and Demons. I tried, but no luck. (Tickets purchased here)
Next stop: Isola Tiberina. Walk time is 30 min.
5. Isola Tiberina: 1800-2000
When visiting Rome in the summer, you must go to Isola Tiberina, a small island in the middle of the River Tiber. Though it’s also interesting to see during the day (it’s home to the beautiful Basilica di San Bartolomeo), when the sun starts to set, this place truly comes to life with an unforgettable atmosphere. On summer evenings, rows of pop-up bars fill the riverbanks of the island. As soon as you approach the area, you’ll hear live music and the vibrant chatter of locals unwinding with drinks. There are also tons of restaurants year-round on the island.
6. End of Day 3!
I hope you enjoyed my musings, my recommendations, and will utilize at least some of my guides and itinerary. If you enjoyed these, please feel free to shoot me an email on my contact page, or follow my on Instagram at vonski_travels. As always, it has been my pleasure to be your guide!